The end of my journey

I waved goodbye to Sydney on Friday with huge sadness. I've such an amazing time there and I really didn't want it to end. But end it must. I arrived back at Heathrow airport in the early hours of Easter Saturday morning, seven months after I left.

What a journey it's been - emotionally, physically and mentally. I have learnt and experienced so much. It has been life-changing.

I've been reading Elizabeth Gilbert's novel 'Eat, Pray, Love'. It seemed pretty pertinent and got me wondering how I'd sum up my journey. I think it may be 'Teach, Learn, Live'. I've gone from teaching in Cambodia, to learning about myself and my limits and then rediscovering the joy in relaxing and enjoying life.

Friends who have known me for years have commented on my happy, relaxed demeanour. Others have said that I look ten years younger than I did a year ago. I certainly feel it. It's fantastic.

Whilst I'm incredibly sad to end this trip, I end it feeling happy and positive. I head back to family and friends in the UK with a renewed outlook on life.

This really isn't the end of my journey. It's just the end of this chapter. A whole new chapter of my life lies ahead and I plan to grab it with both hands!

With a little help from my friends

I've not only visited amazing places and seen stunning sights on this trip, I've made some fantastic friendships. The people I've met along the way have made my journey all the more special.

My fellow volunteers in Cambodia really helped me through. I was so far out of my comfort zone! The proper belly laughs, hugs and confidence boosts that we gave each other made the experience so much sweeter. Special thanks go to Suzanne and Sarah. I can't wait to share another fit of the giggles with you.

Vietnam was quite a lonely experience for me. It's a beautiful country with wonderful people and delicious food, but I spent a lot of time alone there. That all changed when I hit Halong Bay. The few days that I spent on that boat with a fabulous group of people (well most of them!) were just great. Monkey Island really was nuts!

And then I reached Australia. I joined my good pal Emma and everything changed. We had so much fun and a good dose of self-discovery. Our shared experience was a delight to us both and changed our perceptions of travelling. I miss you Em - thank you for sharing Aus with me.

I wasn't looking forward to New Zealand but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The Magic Bus made it all too easy. It also helped that I found a fellow caffeine-addict in Kat who also found it extremely funny to mock the Kiwis' vowels (fush n chups indeed!).

I couldn't have lasted in Australia as long as I did without the generosity of some very special people. Massive thanks in particular to Michelle, Monica, Sarah, Mike, Brooke and Julian. You're total stars and I owe you big time. You made Sydney feel like home. It's down to you that I stopped travelling and started living. And I absolutely love this new lease of life that I've discovered.

Thank you.

Craving beauty treats

My money's getting tighter now (extending my stay would do that I suppose) so I'm having to make compromises. I looked in my wash bag the other day and suddenly had a hankering for my old life. I'm just about hanging on to my Estee Lauder Eight Hour Face Moisturiser but its days are numbered. Nestling next to it is a no-brand body cream, travel size shampoo and conditioner swiped from my last stay in a decent hotel and a razor that really couldn't be considered a threat if I took it on a plane in my hand luggage.

I remember the days when I chose from a veritable array of creams, lotions, serums, oils, fragrances and scrubs. I could match my beauty regime to my mood. My bathroom cabinet and drawers groaned with the weight of all my products promising to make my skin and hair look and feel so much better. What a difference a few months makes.

Back in South East Asia, I could treat myself to the occasional pampering session. When a pedicure costs a mere couple of dollars why wouldn't you? The other day somebody likened my feet to a hobbit's (you know who you are!). I thought my ingenious use of sand as an exfoliator coupled with a slick of red nail polish to distract attention was a pretty good solution. Apparently not - I need to send in the DIY SOS team.

Much as I complained about my waxing experience in Vietnam, I'd head back there like a shot. Now I use a rusting razor and some hair removal cream that was on special in Priceline. How the mighty have fallen!

I remember when my hair was sleek, shiny and straightened. Now it dries au naturel and I do by best with a few kirby grips and my new line in hairbands.

Would I change it? Of course I would! I'd love to be pampered within an inch of my life and to smother myself in luxurious body creams on a daily basis. But if adopting a low maintenance lifestyle for a while means that I can stay in Australia for longer, I'll make the sacrifice. Pass me the Aldi body lotion...

Rediscovering Melbourne

I'm so pleased that I came back here. I visited Melbourne in January but left feeling slightly cheated. Whilst I'd really enjoyed exploring St Kilda with its beaches, cafes, funky shops and arty creations, I gave the city short shrift. I spent less than a day in the city and so I only scratched the surface of this cracking place.

This time, I felt that I got to know it so much better. So much of Melbourne life happens behind the scenes. You have to look beyond the main streets and enter the lanes and passageways which weave between the glittering shopping malls and office blocks. With the narrow streets and pavement cafes buzzing with people sipping cappucinos, it felt more like Italy than Australia. I loved pottering around the hidden gems of the city and deciding whether to tuck into European, Asian or typically Aussie tucker.

There was lots happening whilst I was there too. I managed to catch a catwalk show which was part of the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Week. It seemed weird seeing models showing off winter clothes whilst the sun was beating down on them. It was also the Melbourne Food and Wine festival (I suspect the fash pack didn't make it to this one though). I missed out on Jamie Oliver's event (slightly out of my backpacker budget) but I did sample some tasty delicacies, learn more about local food and admire the edible garden.

In true Pip fashion, I managed to fit in a winery tour. My day in the Yarra Valley was just great. I learnt more about the cool climate grape varieties that do best in that region and I found some new varieties that I hadn't tried before too. It was a lovely day - glorious sunshine, great scenery, tasty food and lots of good wine. The day ended at Domaine Chandon with a glass of bubbly. Now that's my kind of tour!

Reflections on my journey

I've been a bit reflective of late. That might be because I've spent a lot of time on plane, bus and train journeys looking into space. It might just be that time of year with seasons changing. It might also be because I'm nearing the end of this journey. What an amazing journey it's been too - and it's not over yet.

This time last year I was miserable. I wasn't just a bit down, I was absolutely bloody miserable. A series of bad events had worn me down. I look back on it as if I was a different person. In a way, I was. I feel so far away from that person now (quite literally). I haven't felt this happy, healthy or positive in years. Thank you open road!

I did the difficult bit of travelling first - Cambodia. That was such a culture shock, but a brilliant experience. Alongside my memories of being filthy, sweaty and totally out of my comfort zone, are the memories of laughing until my belly hurt, making fantastic new friendships and reaping the rewards of teaching the kids. Vietnam was a test of flying solo. I learnt a lot about myself then. I've certainly tapped into my inner strength on this trip and I've discovered how much you can gain from pushing yourself a bit.

Australia has been a massive learning curve too, but it certainly hasn't been hard work. I feel like I'm sitting back and reaping the rewards now. Life here is so much easier. I feel relaxed, happy and so much more confident. I've met so many different people with interesting tales. It's really opened my mind.

I put a lot of this positivity down to the new love in my life - Sydney! Is it just a fling or is it a longer term relationship? That remains to be seen. All I know is that I've discovered something great here and my journey isn't over yet thankfully.

My New Zealand food trail

I've mentioned before how I've enjoyed learning about local food and wine on my travels. New Zealand was no different. I was only there a short time but I still managed to tuck in! My highlight meal was a delicious plate of green-lipped mussels. They were huge, succulent and smothered in a creamy Thai sauce (oh so authentically Kiwi!)

I didn't just sample the local delicacies though. I actually got my hands dirty and did a cookery course. I didn't learn how to prepare Maori hangi, barbeque or even Kiwi 'fush n chups'. My cookery course was how to prepare sushi and tempura.

Sushi may seem an odd choice of cookery class to study in Auckland. There are a few reasons behind it though. New Zealand was the first place that I ever ate sushi - about 12 years ago in Nelson. It was the kick of the wasabi that burnt the memory into my brain. Also, there is a big Japanese community in Auckland with lots of chances to sample the cuisine. Sushi has become my staple healthy, fast food option in Australia and New Zealand too, so the cookery class seemed rather apt for me.

The Japanese chef showed us how to make nori rolls, uramaki and tamago omelette, how to prepare the sushi rice and then how to create crispy tempura. He made it all look so easy. Believe me, it's not! From washing the rice 20 times to rolling the tightly-packed sushi into a perfect round roll, it is fraught with disaster! I was so pleased to fudge my way through it and produce a pretty attractive, delicate plate of food.

The secret? Clingfilm! It keeps everything packed tightly together when you roll it up. Now I'm not sure that's the age-old traditional Japanese method, but it worked for me. I don't think the sushi vendor need worry about his business just yet though. It's not such a fast food option when you make it yourself.

Next stop New Zealand

I didn't want to come here. I've nothing against New Zealand. I've visited before and liked it. I've heard great things about it. I've got good Kiwi friends. Still, I didn't want to come here.

Coming to New Zealand meant leaving Australia and, as I've mentioned once or twice before, I rather like it there. It's felt like home to me over the past few months. However, I boarded the plane from Sydney to Auckland reluctantly and here I am in the North Island of New Zealand.

Time to eat my words! I've actually really enjoyed my travels here. Everyone told me it would be cold. I had jumpers sent over from the UK in preparation. It's been hot and sunny here every day of my trip. The sun actually feels more intense than in Sydney. That'll be a lack of ozone for you. Still, it makes me happy!

I've been travelling around on the Magic Bus which has been a great way to meet people and see a lot of the country in your own time as you can hop on and off as you please. I'm only here for 10 days, so my pace is pretty fast.

I've been to Auckland, Thames, Rotorua, Waitomo, Taupo, Napier, Tauranga, Mount Mounganui (wasn't he in Karate Kid?), Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga, and we've stopped at various waterfalls, lakes, Lord of the Rings icons and random sights along the way. It really is a beautiful country with green, rolling hills, stunning natural landscapes, loads of sheep, cows and not many people. Maybe that's because all the Kiwis are in London...

Nearly all the people I've met have been British though. Mix in a smattering of Canadians, Irish, Aussies and Germans and you have a typical bus crew. Us Brits had a fun time trying to teach the Kiwi bus driver how to speak 'properly'. He seemed to get his vowels confused! I tried to explain that "Puppa [that's me], try some Noo Zillund fush and chups" just isn't right. Funnily enough, I got some choice Kiwi words in response.

It's been fun, but I have to wave goodbye to the land of the long white cloud and return to Sydney to see what will happen next on my journey. Watch this space...

Quick trip to Queensland

One luxury of being on a long trip like this is the freedom to be flexible with time. So when my good friend Michelle invited me to stay with her near Brisbane, I said 'yes' even though I hadn't planned to travel up the east coast.

I've visited Michelle a couple of times before but she has a new house now. A new house in the country that is. A new house in the country with five acres of land. A new house with two cows on her acres of land (they keep the grass short apparently). It's a far cry from her flat in Harlesden I can tell you!

I had a rather lovely relaxing week. It was around 35 degrees and 75% humidity when I got there. I haven't been that hot and sweaty since Cambodia. But then the rain came.

Unfortunately the rain came just as we took a girly trip to the coast - Byron Bay. Just my British luck! While the locals celebrated the first rain they'd had in months, I felt reminiscent of wet childhood holidays in Devon. Instead of surfing, we shopped. Instead of lying on the beach, we ate and drank. Instead of going on a hike, I had a massage... Ok, it wasn't all bad. It was actually rather lovely.

It's about seizing the moment and being flexible enough to do what works at the time. It's just part of the learning experience.

Foodie discoveries

One of the big pleasures of this trip for me has been learning more about local food and drink. I've opened my mind about many things along the way which is a wonderful thing.

In Cambodia and Vietnam, I think I managed to avoid eating dog although I couldn't avoid the sight of butchered dog in the markets. I did eat a tarantula though. The legs were like twiglets, so I told myself.

I really enjoyed the fresh, fragrant flavours in SE Asian food. I still crave a decent Vietnamese pho or banana leaf salad now. I felt so clean and healthy after eating the delicious Vietnamese food. I lost a few pounds on it too.

That's why I loved the cookery courses that I did in Cambodia and Vietnam. I've looked into cookery courses in Australia too. The choice seems to be Thai, Italian, Greek, Japanese or tapas. What about Aussie cooking? What exactly is Australian cuisine other than pies and barbeques? They also lay claim to the pavlova but I'm dubious about that!

I have eaten kangaroo. Actually, I ate barbequed kangaroo on Kangaroo Island while kangaroos were watching. I felt slightly awkward about that. It is tasty - kind of like lean beef. Apparently it's only the tourists that eat it though. My tour guide has only ever cooked it for her tourists or her dog.

So instead of learning about Aussie cooking, I've immersed myself into learning more about Australian wine (it's hard work you know!). I've studied hard, taking wine tours in various regions - Margaret River, Hunter Valley and Barossa Valley. I've done plenty of extra curricular research too. Wine isn't something to be sniffed at!

I've had to open my mind here too as I would normally avoid Australian wine back in the UK.

I have been pleasantly surprised. My preconceptions of rich, oaky Chardonnay (usually the colour of stale wee) have been shattered. I actually like Australian Chardonnay. Who'd have thought it? The recent varieties are buttery and delicious. My memories of Bridget Jones style Chardonnay drinking are oh so different. But as in fashion, I predict a resurgence of the 1990s trend of Chardonnay but this time it actually tastes pretty darn good.

Cheers!

Melbourne to Adelaide

I waved a reluctant goodbye to Sydney last week. I've grown rather attached to that fantastic city. I love the lifestyle, the people, the opportunities, the positivity. It rather suits me. However, like the Littlest Hobo, I must keep moving on. Don't worry Sydders, it's only farewell. I'll be back soon.

Melbourne
I stepped off the plane in Melbourne and was engulfed by a wave of heat. It was 6pm but still over 40 degrees. I manged to arrive in Melbourne on its hottest night in 100 years! Luckily, I was staying with friends and had a great night's sleep. Others weren't so lucky and spent the night on the beach, cooling off in the sea.

The next day was hot and humid too, so Alice and I decided to cycle along the coastline and stop for a dip in the sea along the way. I was thoroughly enjoying it and encouraging Alice to venture on to the next bay and the next. It was then that my bike broke! I know next to nothing about bikes and Alice knows no more, so two blonde Essex girls fiddled around aimlessly with the chain getting rather grubby. That's when two dripping wet men in Speedos came to our rescue! Clearly it was a simple problem with the gear mechanism. I don't know why we didn't work that out ourselves! We set off again only for it to reoccur five minutes later. This time, no knights appeared. Eventually we flagged down an aged cyclist who declared the gears 'buggered'. It was a long walk home that hot, humid Tuesday.

The day progressed with more misadventures, one of which involved us calling an ambulance to the Botanic Gardens, but that's another story...

I really enjoyed Melbourne. It's got real character to it. There are quirky shops to browse, coffee shops with delectable cakes to enjoy and loads of arty touches everywhere. Turn a corner and you'll come across an unusual mosaic or interesting sculpture. It's really cosmopolitan, buzzing and quite European really (possibly because there are so many Brits, Irish and French backpackers there!)

The weather's unusual too. You really do experience four seasons in one day as Crowded House said. It went from a humid 43 to a grey 23 in a couple of days. Layers are definitely key to Melbourne dressing.

Great Ocean Road
Next came a three day tour from Melbourne to Adelaide. Wow! The Great Ocean Road is stunning. Luckily, the sun came out at all the right spots. The sight of the Twelve Apostles against a clear blue sky was breathtaking. Loch Ard Gorge was another marvel, as were the many other bays and rock formations along the way. I was also quite excited to visit Bells Beach as it features in Point Break. My fellow tourists didn't share my enthusiasm - only the bus driver and I were old enough to remember the iconic surf movie!!

Having had our fill of beaches and curious rocks, we moved inland to The Grampians. We hiked up mounts and admired huge expanses of rural landscapes (oh, and more rock formations). Sights like that remind me just how vast this country is. You see nothing but nature for miles and miles - no towns to blot the landscape. Talking of nature, I was chuffed to see koalas, kangaroos (white and grey), echidnas, possums, wallabies and emus (evil bastards according to my tour guide - poor Rod Hull RIP).

Adelaide
Now I'm in Adelaide. I'm not sure what to expect of this place as I've heard nothing positive about it at all. There are no must-see landmarks. It's the driest state in the driest continent. That said, it was raining when we arrived.

Fortunately, it's near enough the Barossa Valley for us not to stay dry for long. Bring on another winery tour.

As luck would have it, I've also coincided my visit with the Tour Down Under. I'm off to find Lance Armstrong and his lycra-clad mates!

More soon...

Life in Sydney

Life here in Sydney has been yet another totally different travelling experience. Unlike the challenges in Cambodia and Vietnam, it's just 'too easy'. It makes such a refreshing change!

A huge reason for this is down to my fab friends.
- I'm travelling/ living with Emma. It's just great to have a good mate to share the experience with.
- Mon has lent us her flat to mind while she's overseas. It's a fantastic pad in Rose Bay. It's a gorgeous location, just a 15 min ferry ride to the city passing the iconic landmarks, the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. It's a lovely commute.
- My good friends in Sydney have been really hospitable, inviting us to barbies, parties, nights out, boat trips and more. It's been so much fun.
- We've made new friends too and have enjoyed sharing different adventures and experiences with them as well. I love the Aussie way of inviting everyone to everything. It's so inclusive, unlike our typically restricting invitations.

New Year's Eve in Sydney
New Year's Eve was a particular highlight. I am not a fan of that night ordinarily. It always seems a hassle to arrange and an ultimate disappointment. Not so this year.

About 14 of us (plus about 150 others!) took a ferry to Shark Island, a nature reserve just off Rose Bay in Sydney harbour. We set up camp on the banks of the island in full view of the harbour. Emma and I looked out over the view of the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and the various boats partying up and down the water and we could not stop grinning. We all tucked into our picnic and BYO watching the spectacular fireworks, first at 9pm and then the all important ones at midnight. What a way to see in 2010!

So far 2010 has been pretty good. The weather's been a bit grey, but the sun has shone through from time to time. I went surfing in Manly. I managed to stand up, but I think I cracked a rib soon after! I've explored the Eastern beaches, from Coogee to Bondi. Although they can't quite compete with the sublime West Coast beaches, they sure beat Southend and Brighton! We stopped for a picnic in a cove near Tamarama which was just lovely. I've had delicious meals with friends old and new. Oh, and I got absolutely drenched crossing the Harbour Bridge as the heavens opened!

Sydney festival starts this weekend so that should be entertaining. I head off to Melbourne next week. How can it compete with Sydney? I'll let you know soon...