Monday 28 December 2009

Christmas in Sydney

I hope you all had a very merry Christmas. I still can't really believe that it's been and gone. It's 29th December and I'm the same weight that I was last week and I feel really healthy. That just isn't right for Christmas week. I've had Christmas with no turkey, no roasties, no mince pies, no pud and no Quality Street. My fridge isn't weighed down with leftovers and my stomach isn't groaning after weeks of over-indulgence. It's great!

In the lead up to Christmas, I heard a few festive tunes in shops but not very many. There are some decorations around, but it's much less noticeable than at home. Christmas trees, Santa and reindeer just don't look right against a sunny backdrop.

To get in the festive spirit, Emma and I went to Darling Harbour on Christmas Eve. We joined in the carols around the Christmas tree which was made us feel a bit more Christmassy. There were a few groups of people wearing Santa hats, tinsel and other festive accessories. Spot the Brits! After the carols, we sat on the harbourside with a glass of wine and watched the fireworks. It was a lovely to start our celebrations.

Christmas Day was spent at my friends' house with an eclectic group of fellow waifs and strays. Lunch was a fish barbeque. It was utterly delicious and so relaxed. No panic about getting everything in the oven at 8am! Unfortunately, it was a grey, drizzly day so I was really pleased that some traditions are international - the men stood outside barbequeing in the rain while the women sat inside chatting and drinking!

It was a lovely day, but it didn't really feel like Christmas. It should be cold, indulgent and with family really. But that's what I do every year, and this trip is all about doing something different. Whilst I've missed my family and friends, I haven't missed all the Christmas hype and panic. I just sailed through it with a smile on my face.

All in all, Christmas has been super-chilled. In fact, that's the overwhelming characteristic of my Aussie experience so far. It's too easy (my favourite Aussie expression)!

After volunteering in Cambodia and travelling alone through Vietnam, I keep thinking that my travels should be more challenging than this. I'm staying in a friend's apartment, catching up with mates who have moved here, and I'm generally enjoying living in Sydney for a while. It's great, but should I be looking for more testing experiences on my trip?

On the other hand, I have a tan to maintain and a surf lesson lined up. Maybe that's enough of a challenge for now.

Have a happy new year all.

Friday 11 December 2009

WA road trip 2

This week I have mainly been on a tour of the south coast of Western Australia, from Perth to Esperance. What can I say but wow, wow, wow?! It was brilliant. I left the driving to a professional this time and sat back to enjoy the view from the minibus. Nice!

Day 1: Perth to Augusta
We drove out of Perth in glorious sunshine and headed to Busselton where we admired the longest pier in the southern hemisphere. Being from Southend which boasts the longest pier in the world, I can't say I was that impressed. However, the pure white sand and clear turquoise water surrounding it did impress me. Much as I love Sarfend, it really can't compete with that. Just to top it all off, an ironman contest was taking place. Fit men, beautiful beaches and glorious sunshine - I was in heaven. They had to tear me away from the place with the promise of wine and surfers later in the day!

We managed to cram in a national park, a brewery, a spot of shopping and time to laze on a windsurfer beach too. Three of us girls were really quite enthralled by the sight of 'hotties in wetties' (translation: hot men in wetsuits), and again we had to be enticed back to the bus. A pretty good start to the tour!

Days 2 and 3: Augusta - Albany - Esperance
Days two and three were grey, cloudy and quite chilly which was a shocker. I had to chuckle when the Russian girl in our party was complaining about the cold, especially as she'd been regaling us with tales of partying in temperatures of -54 degrees! We tried not to let the slight chill spoil our enjoyment of the Karri forest, hikes through great national parks and our exploration of the stunning scenery. I haven't climbed a tree since I was about 10, but I did here - the bicentennial tree (rather tall as it goes!)

Day 4: Esperance
Day four was an absolute beauty. The sun shone brightly for us in the lovely town of Esperance. We spent the day moving from one stunning beach to another. This town is so spoilt - not one but about eight beaches of breathtaking beauty. All of them have pure white sand and clear, clear sea. We were practically the only people on them too. Being a self-confessed beach babe, this was utter heaven for me. I have been swept away by the beaches in Esperance and the Ningaloo reef up north. Western Australia really does good beaches. Can Bondi compete? I shall find out next week.

Back in Perth
So now I'm back in Perth for a few days before flying to Sydney next week. I'm staying in Cottesloe beach to lap up my last days of WA beach life in the sunshine.

It certainly doesn't feel like Christmas is just around the corner. It's more hot, hot, hot than ho, ho, ho here!

Wednesday 2 December 2009

Our WA road trip

28th November: Coral Bay, WA
What have I done today? I woke up to beautiful blue skies which developed into 38 degree sunshine. I walked along the most incredible beach with soft, white sand leading into deep blue sea interspersed with coral reef. Jealous yet?

I've driven up to Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef with my friend Em. We started in Freo near Perth, loaded our backpacks, day packs, smaller bags and ourselves into our two door Hyundai rental car and set off on our Thelma and Louise style adventure. We drove through suburbs and winelands, miles of arrid, bare earth varying from grey to brown to yellow to red.

We've stopped in small towns, at stunning beaches (one made entirely from cockleshells - the aptly named Shell Beach), at weird stone formations in the desert (the Pinnacles) and, thankfully, at petrol stations in the middle of nowhere where you expect tumbleweed to blow past at any moment. We've seen some strange creatures, especially in those random roadhouse petrol stations!

Fortunately, the only kangaroos we've seen have been roadkill. That's fortunate for me, not the poor deceased roo. Much as I love spotting wildlife, I really don't want to spot it splattered across the windscreen. The animal death toll on these roads is massive. Surely someone can teach the green cross code to wildlife.

I did a fabulous snorkelling trip where I swam with a manta ray - just amazing. Then I dived with a turtle and got nibbled by shoals of emperor fish. The other day I paddled with wild dolphins. Today we saw baby sharks swimming by the shore. Each day this week I've been blown away by natural beauty - and I don't mean the surfers!

We've reached our northernmost destination and it's time to start heading south again. On our Thelma and Louise adventure, we haven't yet shot anyone or encountered Brad Pitt but there's still time!

If reading this has made you a tad envious, there is a fly in the ointment. In fact, pesky flies are everywhere and they're incredibly persistent. They land on you and stay. Currently, one is on my eyelid and another on my lip. I may be buying a hat with corks yet...

G'day Western Australia

21st November: Perth, WA
Two days ago I waved a sad farewell to my cousin in Hong Kong, took a taxi, train, plane, bus and another train and arrived at Fremantle station to be greeted by my good friend Emma. We'll be travelling together in Oz which will be great - no more flying solo for a while.

I've been to Oz a few times before, but always to the east coast. Now's the time to discover if west really is best, as many have told me.

The first thing that strikes me in Oz is the vast size of it. It shouldn't surprise me, but it does. The roads seem wide. Shops, units and buildings seem so big. There are so many parks and open spaces. It makes me realise how cramped it is at home and in so many other parts of the world.

Then there's the Aussie friendliness. I exited Perth airport with my backpack, clearly looking vaguely lost. Within seconds, an incredibly helpful woman helped me find my best route to Freo (Fremantle - a suburb just south of Perth). She made it all so easy with her warmth and kindness. It was such a contrast to previous airport greetings in Asia where there's a frenzied descent of taxi drivers and touts vying for your trade, and in many cases, the opportunity to scam a naive tourist.

The other big surprise for me here is the high prices. With the current exchange rate, costs are about the same as the UK. After travelling in SE Asia, that hurts! I was able to live well for so little in Vietnam and Cambodia that I've got used to eating out. Price tags are irrelevant there as haggling is a national sport. That's not going to work here. I'm going to have to embrace the backpacker spirit, sleep in dormitory bunk beds and cook my instant noodles in the hostel's communal kitchen. Eek!

Fortunately, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and that costs nothing!