The end of my journey

I waved goodbye to Sydney on Friday with huge sadness. I've such an amazing time there and I really didn't want it to end. But end it must. I arrived back at Heathrow airport in the early hours of Easter Saturday morning, seven months after I left.

What a journey it's been - emotionally, physically and mentally. I have learnt and experienced so much. It has been life-changing.

I've been reading Elizabeth Gilbert's novel 'Eat, Pray, Love'. It seemed pretty pertinent and got me wondering how I'd sum up my journey. I think it may be 'Teach, Learn, Live'. I've gone from teaching in Cambodia, to learning about myself and my limits and then rediscovering the joy in relaxing and enjoying life.

Friends who have known me for years have commented on my happy, relaxed demeanour. Others have said that I look ten years younger than I did a year ago. I certainly feel it. It's fantastic.

Whilst I'm incredibly sad to end this trip, I end it feeling happy and positive. I head back to family and friends in the UK with a renewed outlook on life.

This really isn't the end of my journey. It's just the end of this chapter. A whole new chapter of my life lies ahead and I plan to grab it with both hands!

With a little help from my friends

I've not only visited amazing places and seen stunning sights on this trip, I've made some fantastic friendships. The people I've met along the way have made my journey all the more special.

My fellow volunteers in Cambodia really helped me through. I was so far out of my comfort zone! The proper belly laughs, hugs and confidence boosts that we gave each other made the experience so much sweeter. Special thanks go to Suzanne and Sarah. I can't wait to share another fit of the giggles with you.

Vietnam was quite a lonely experience for me. It's a beautiful country with wonderful people and delicious food, but I spent a lot of time alone there. That all changed when I hit Halong Bay. The few days that I spent on that boat with a fabulous group of people (well most of them!) were just great. Monkey Island really was nuts!

And then I reached Australia. I joined my good pal Emma and everything changed. We had so much fun and a good dose of self-discovery. Our shared experience was a delight to us both and changed our perceptions of travelling. I miss you Em - thank you for sharing Aus with me.

I wasn't looking forward to New Zealand but I thoroughly enjoyed it. The Magic Bus made it all too easy. It also helped that I found a fellow caffeine-addict in Kat who also found it extremely funny to mock the Kiwis' vowels (fush n chups indeed!).

I couldn't have lasted in Australia as long as I did without the generosity of some very special people. Massive thanks in particular to Michelle, Monica, Sarah, Mike, Brooke and Julian. You're total stars and I owe you big time. You made Sydney feel like home. It's down to you that I stopped travelling and started living. And I absolutely love this new lease of life that I've discovered.

Thank you.

Craving beauty treats

My money's getting tighter now (extending my stay would do that I suppose) so I'm having to make compromises. I looked in my wash bag the other day and suddenly had a hankering for my old life. I'm just about hanging on to my Estee Lauder Eight Hour Face Moisturiser but its days are numbered. Nestling next to it is a no-brand body cream, travel size shampoo and conditioner swiped from my last stay in a decent hotel and a razor that really couldn't be considered a threat if I took it on a plane in my hand luggage.

I remember the days when I chose from a veritable array of creams, lotions, serums, oils, fragrances and scrubs. I could match my beauty regime to my mood. My bathroom cabinet and drawers groaned with the weight of all my products promising to make my skin and hair look and feel so much better. What a difference a few months makes.

Back in South East Asia, I could treat myself to the occasional pampering session. When a pedicure costs a mere couple of dollars why wouldn't you? The other day somebody likened my feet to a hobbit's (you know who you are!). I thought my ingenious use of sand as an exfoliator coupled with a slick of red nail polish to distract attention was a pretty good solution. Apparently not - I need to send in the DIY SOS team.

Much as I complained about my waxing experience in Vietnam, I'd head back there like a shot. Now I use a rusting razor and some hair removal cream that was on special in Priceline. How the mighty have fallen!

I remember when my hair was sleek, shiny and straightened. Now it dries au naturel and I do by best with a few kirby grips and my new line in hairbands.

Would I change it? Of course I would! I'd love to be pampered within an inch of my life and to smother myself in luxurious body creams on a daily basis. But if adopting a low maintenance lifestyle for a while means that I can stay in Australia for longer, I'll make the sacrifice. Pass me the Aldi body lotion...

Rediscovering Melbourne

I'm so pleased that I came back here. I visited Melbourne in January but left feeling slightly cheated. Whilst I'd really enjoyed exploring St Kilda with its beaches, cafes, funky shops and arty creations, I gave the city short shrift. I spent less than a day in the city and so I only scratched the surface of this cracking place.

This time, I felt that I got to know it so much better. So much of Melbourne life happens behind the scenes. You have to look beyond the main streets and enter the lanes and passageways which weave between the glittering shopping malls and office blocks. With the narrow streets and pavement cafes buzzing with people sipping cappucinos, it felt more like Italy than Australia. I loved pottering around the hidden gems of the city and deciding whether to tuck into European, Asian or typically Aussie tucker.

There was lots happening whilst I was there too. I managed to catch a catwalk show which was part of the L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Week. It seemed weird seeing models showing off winter clothes whilst the sun was beating down on them. It was also the Melbourne Food and Wine festival (I suspect the fash pack didn't make it to this one though). I missed out on Jamie Oliver's event (slightly out of my backpacker budget) but I did sample some tasty delicacies, learn more about local food and admire the edible garden.

In true Pip fashion, I managed to fit in a winery tour. My day in the Yarra Valley was just great. I learnt more about the cool climate grape varieties that do best in that region and I found some new varieties that I hadn't tried before too. It was a lovely day - glorious sunshine, great scenery, tasty food and lots of good wine. The day ended at Domaine Chandon with a glass of bubbly. Now that's my kind of tour!

Reflections on my journey

I've been a bit reflective of late. That might be because I've spent a lot of time on plane, bus and train journeys looking into space. It might just be that time of year with seasons changing. It might also be because I'm nearing the end of this journey. What an amazing journey it's been too - and it's not over yet.

This time last year I was miserable. I wasn't just a bit down, I was absolutely bloody miserable. A series of bad events had worn me down. I look back on it as if I was a different person. In a way, I was. I feel so far away from that person now (quite literally). I haven't felt this happy, healthy or positive in years. Thank you open road!

I did the difficult bit of travelling first - Cambodia. That was such a culture shock, but a brilliant experience. Alongside my memories of being filthy, sweaty and totally out of my comfort zone, are the memories of laughing until my belly hurt, making fantastic new friendships and reaping the rewards of teaching the kids. Vietnam was a test of flying solo. I learnt a lot about myself then. I've certainly tapped into my inner strength on this trip and I've discovered how much you can gain from pushing yourself a bit.

Australia has been a massive learning curve too, but it certainly hasn't been hard work. I feel like I'm sitting back and reaping the rewards now. Life here is so much easier. I feel relaxed, happy and so much more confident. I've met so many different people with interesting tales. It's really opened my mind.

I put a lot of this positivity down to the new love in my life - Sydney! Is it just a fling or is it a longer term relationship? That remains to be seen. All I know is that I've discovered something great here and my journey isn't over yet thankfully.

My New Zealand food trail

I've mentioned before how I've enjoyed learning about local food and wine on my travels. New Zealand was no different. I was only there a short time but I still managed to tuck in! My highlight meal was a delicious plate of green-lipped mussels. They were huge, succulent and smothered in a creamy Thai sauce (oh so authentically Kiwi!)

I didn't just sample the local delicacies though. I actually got my hands dirty and did a cookery course. I didn't learn how to prepare Maori hangi, barbeque or even Kiwi 'fush n chups'. My cookery course was how to prepare sushi and tempura.

Sushi may seem an odd choice of cookery class to study in Auckland. There are a few reasons behind it though. New Zealand was the first place that I ever ate sushi - about 12 years ago in Nelson. It was the kick of the wasabi that burnt the memory into my brain. Also, there is a big Japanese community in Auckland with lots of chances to sample the cuisine. Sushi has become my staple healthy, fast food option in Australia and New Zealand too, so the cookery class seemed rather apt for me.

The Japanese chef showed us how to make nori rolls, uramaki and tamago omelette, how to prepare the sushi rice and then how to create crispy tempura. He made it all look so easy. Believe me, it's not! From washing the rice 20 times to rolling the tightly-packed sushi into a perfect round roll, it is fraught with disaster! I was so pleased to fudge my way through it and produce a pretty attractive, delicate plate of food.

The secret? Clingfilm! It keeps everything packed tightly together when you roll it up. Now I'm not sure that's the age-old traditional Japanese method, but it worked for me. I don't think the sushi vendor need worry about his business just yet though. It's not such a fast food option when you make it yourself.

Next stop New Zealand

I didn't want to come here. I've nothing against New Zealand. I've visited before and liked it. I've heard great things about it. I've got good Kiwi friends. Still, I didn't want to come here.

Coming to New Zealand meant leaving Australia and, as I've mentioned once or twice before, I rather like it there. It's felt like home to me over the past few months. However, I boarded the plane from Sydney to Auckland reluctantly and here I am in the North Island of New Zealand.

Time to eat my words! I've actually really enjoyed my travels here. Everyone told me it would be cold. I had jumpers sent over from the UK in preparation. It's been hot and sunny here every day of my trip. The sun actually feels more intense than in Sydney. That'll be a lack of ozone for you. Still, it makes me happy!

I've been travelling around on the Magic Bus which has been a great way to meet people and see a lot of the country in your own time as you can hop on and off as you please. I'm only here for 10 days, so my pace is pretty fast.

I've been to Auckland, Thames, Rotorua, Waitomo, Taupo, Napier, Tauranga, Mount Mounganui (wasn't he in Karate Kid?), Bay of Islands and Cape Reinga, and we've stopped at various waterfalls, lakes, Lord of the Rings icons and random sights along the way. It really is a beautiful country with green, rolling hills, stunning natural landscapes, loads of sheep, cows and not many people. Maybe that's because all the Kiwis are in London...

Nearly all the people I've met have been British though. Mix in a smattering of Canadians, Irish, Aussies and Germans and you have a typical bus crew. Us Brits had a fun time trying to teach the Kiwi bus driver how to speak 'properly'. He seemed to get his vowels confused! I tried to explain that "Puppa [that's me], try some Noo Zillund fush and chups" just isn't right. Funnily enough, I got some choice Kiwi words in response.

It's been fun, but I have to wave goodbye to the land of the long white cloud and return to Sydney to see what will happen next on my journey. Watch this space...

Quick trip to Queensland

One luxury of being on a long trip like this is the freedom to be flexible with time. So when my good friend Michelle invited me to stay with her near Brisbane, I said 'yes' even though I hadn't planned to travel up the east coast.

I've visited Michelle a couple of times before but she has a new house now. A new house in the country that is. A new house in the country with five acres of land. A new house with two cows on her acres of land (they keep the grass short apparently). It's a far cry from her flat in Harlesden I can tell you!

I had a rather lovely relaxing week. It was around 35 degrees and 75% humidity when I got there. I haven't been that hot and sweaty since Cambodia. But then the rain came.

Unfortunately the rain came just as we took a girly trip to the coast - Byron Bay. Just my British luck! While the locals celebrated the first rain they'd had in months, I felt reminiscent of wet childhood holidays in Devon. Instead of surfing, we shopped. Instead of lying on the beach, we ate and drank. Instead of going on a hike, I had a massage... Ok, it wasn't all bad. It was actually rather lovely.

It's about seizing the moment and being flexible enough to do what works at the time. It's just part of the learning experience.

Foodie discoveries

One of the big pleasures of this trip for me has been learning more about local food and drink. I've opened my mind about many things along the way which is a wonderful thing.

In Cambodia and Vietnam, I think I managed to avoid eating dog although I couldn't avoid the sight of butchered dog in the markets. I did eat a tarantula though. The legs were like twiglets, so I told myself.

I really enjoyed the fresh, fragrant flavours in SE Asian food. I still crave a decent Vietnamese pho or banana leaf salad now. I felt so clean and healthy after eating the delicious Vietnamese food. I lost a few pounds on it too.

That's why I loved the cookery courses that I did in Cambodia and Vietnam. I've looked into cookery courses in Australia too. The choice seems to be Thai, Italian, Greek, Japanese or tapas. What about Aussie cooking? What exactly is Australian cuisine other than pies and barbeques? They also lay claim to the pavlova but I'm dubious about that!

I have eaten kangaroo. Actually, I ate barbequed kangaroo on Kangaroo Island while kangaroos were watching. I felt slightly awkward about that. It is tasty - kind of like lean beef. Apparently it's only the tourists that eat it though. My tour guide has only ever cooked it for her tourists or her dog.

So instead of learning about Aussie cooking, I've immersed myself into learning more about Australian wine (it's hard work you know!). I've studied hard, taking wine tours in various regions - Margaret River, Hunter Valley and Barossa Valley. I've done plenty of extra curricular research too. Wine isn't something to be sniffed at!

I've had to open my mind here too as I would normally avoid Australian wine back in the UK.

I have been pleasantly surprised. My preconceptions of rich, oaky Chardonnay (usually the colour of stale wee) have been shattered. I actually like Australian Chardonnay. Who'd have thought it? The recent varieties are buttery and delicious. My memories of Bridget Jones style Chardonnay drinking are oh so different. But as in fashion, I predict a resurgence of the 1990s trend of Chardonnay but this time it actually tastes pretty darn good.

Cheers!

Melbourne to Adelaide

I waved a reluctant goodbye to Sydney last week. I've grown rather attached to that fantastic city. I love the lifestyle, the people, the opportunities, the positivity. It rather suits me. However, like the Littlest Hobo, I must keep moving on. Don't worry Sydders, it's only farewell. I'll be back soon.

Melbourne
I stepped off the plane in Melbourne and was engulfed by a wave of heat. It was 6pm but still over 40 degrees. I manged to arrive in Melbourne on its hottest night in 100 years! Luckily, I was staying with friends and had a great night's sleep. Others weren't so lucky and spent the night on the beach, cooling off in the sea.

The next day was hot and humid too, so Alice and I decided to cycle along the coastline and stop for a dip in the sea along the way. I was thoroughly enjoying it and encouraging Alice to venture on to the next bay and the next. It was then that my bike broke! I know next to nothing about bikes and Alice knows no more, so two blonde Essex girls fiddled around aimlessly with the chain getting rather grubby. That's when two dripping wet men in Speedos came to our rescue! Clearly it was a simple problem with the gear mechanism. I don't know why we didn't work that out ourselves! We set off again only for it to reoccur five minutes later. This time, no knights appeared. Eventually we flagged down an aged cyclist who declared the gears 'buggered'. It was a long walk home that hot, humid Tuesday.

The day progressed with more misadventures, one of which involved us calling an ambulance to the Botanic Gardens, but that's another story...

I really enjoyed Melbourne. It's got real character to it. There are quirky shops to browse, coffee shops with delectable cakes to enjoy and loads of arty touches everywhere. Turn a corner and you'll come across an unusual mosaic or interesting sculpture. It's really cosmopolitan, buzzing and quite European really (possibly because there are so many Brits, Irish and French backpackers there!)

The weather's unusual too. You really do experience four seasons in one day as Crowded House said. It went from a humid 43 to a grey 23 in a couple of days. Layers are definitely key to Melbourne dressing.

Great Ocean Road
Next came a three day tour from Melbourne to Adelaide. Wow! The Great Ocean Road is stunning. Luckily, the sun came out at all the right spots. The sight of the Twelve Apostles against a clear blue sky was breathtaking. Loch Ard Gorge was another marvel, as were the many other bays and rock formations along the way. I was also quite excited to visit Bells Beach as it features in Point Break. My fellow tourists didn't share my enthusiasm - only the bus driver and I were old enough to remember the iconic surf movie!!

Having had our fill of beaches and curious rocks, we moved inland to The Grampians. We hiked up mounts and admired huge expanses of rural landscapes (oh, and more rock formations). Sights like that remind me just how vast this country is. You see nothing but nature for miles and miles - no towns to blot the landscape. Talking of nature, I was chuffed to see koalas, kangaroos (white and grey), echidnas, possums, wallabies and emus (evil bastards according to my tour guide - poor Rod Hull RIP).

Adelaide
Now I'm in Adelaide. I'm not sure what to expect of this place as I've heard nothing positive about it at all. There are no must-see landmarks. It's the driest state in the driest continent. That said, it was raining when we arrived.

Fortunately, it's near enough the Barossa Valley for us not to stay dry for long. Bring on another winery tour.

As luck would have it, I've also coincided my visit with the Tour Down Under. I'm off to find Lance Armstrong and his lycra-clad mates!

More soon...

Life in Sydney

Life here in Sydney has been yet another totally different travelling experience. Unlike the challenges in Cambodia and Vietnam, it's just 'too easy'. It makes such a refreshing change!

A huge reason for this is down to my fab friends.
- I'm travelling/ living with Emma. It's just great to have a good mate to share the experience with.
- Mon has lent us her flat to mind while she's overseas. It's a fantastic pad in Rose Bay. It's a gorgeous location, just a 15 min ferry ride to the city passing the iconic landmarks, the Opera House and Harbour Bridge. It's a lovely commute.
- My good friends in Sydney have been really hospitable, inviting us to barbies, parties, nights out, boat trips and more. It's been so much fun.
- We've made new friends too and have enjoyed sharing different adventures and experiences with them as well. I love the Aussie way of inviting everyone to everything. It's so inclusive, unlike our typically restricting invitations.

New Year's Eve in Sydney
New Year's Eve was a particular highlight. I am not a fan of that night ordinarily. It always seems a hassle to arrange and an ultimate disappointment. Not so this year.

About 14 of us (plus about 150 others!) took a ferry to Shark Island, a nature reserve just off Rose Bay in Sydney harbour. We set up camp on the banks of the island in full view of the harbour. Emma and I looked out over the view of the Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and the various boats partying up and down the water and we could not stop grinning. We all tucked into our picnic and BYO watching the spectacular fireworks, first at 9pm and then the all important ones at midnight. What a way to see in 2010!

So far 2010 has been pretty good. The weather's been a bit grey, but the sun has shone through from time to time. I went surfing in Manly. I managed to stand up, but I think I cracked a rib soon after! I've explored the Eastern beaches, from Coogee to Bondi. Although they can't quite compete with the sublime West Coast beaches, they sure beat Southend and Brighton! We stopped for a picnic in a cove near Tamarama which was just lovely. I've had delicious meals with friends old and new. Oh, and I got absolutely drenched crossing the Harbour Bridge as the heavens opened!

Sydney festival starts this weekend so that should be entertaining. I head off to Melbourne next week. How can it compete with Sydney? I'll let you know soon...

Christmas in Sydney

I hope you all had a very merry Christmas. I still can't really believe that it's been and gone. It's 29th December and I'm the same weight that I was last week and I feel really healthy. That just isn't right for Christmas week. I've had Christmas with no turkey, no roasties, no mince pies, no pud and no Quality Street. My fridge isn't weighed down with leftovers and my stomach isn't groaning after weeks of over-indulgence. It's great!

In the lead up to Christmas, I heard a few festive tunes in shops but not very many. There are some decorations around, but it's much less noticeable than at home. Christmas trees, Santa and reindeer just don't look right against a sunny backdrop.

To get in the festive spirit, Emma and I went to Darling Harbour on Christmas Eve. We joined in the carols around the Christmas tree which was made us feel a bit more Christmassy. There were a few groups of people wearing Santa hats, tinsel and other festive accessories. Spot the Brits! After the carols, we sat on the harbourside with a glass of wine and watched the fireworks. It was a lovely to start our celebrations.

Christmas Day was spent at my friends' house with an eclectic group of fellow waifs and strays. Lunch was a fish barbeque. It was utterly delicious and so relaxed. No panic about getting everything in the oven at 8am! Unfortunately, it was a grey, drizzly day so I was really pleased that some traditions are international - the men stood outside barbequeing in the rain while the women sat inside chatting and drinking!

It was a lovely day, but it didn't really feel like Christmas. It should be cold, indulgent and with family really. But that's what I do every year, and this trip is all about doing something different. Whilst I've missed my family and friends, I haven't missed all the Christmas hype and panic. I just sailed through it with a smile on my face.

All in all, Christmas has been super-chilled. In fact, that's the overwhelming characteristic of my Aussie experience so far. It's too easy (my favourite Aussie expression)!

After volunteering in Cambodia and travelling alone through Vietnam, I keep thinking that my travels should be more challenging than this. I'm staying in a friend's apartment, catching up with mates who have moved here, and I'm generally enjoying living in Sydney for a while. It's great, but should I be looking for more testing experiences on my trip?

On the other hand, I have a tan to maintain and a surf lesson lined up. Maybe that's enough of a challenge for now.

Have a happy new year all.

WA road trip 2

This week I have mainly been on a tour of the south coast of Western Australia, from Perth to Esperance. What can I say but wow, wow, wow?! It was brilliant. I left the driving to a professional this time and sat back to enjoy the view from the minibus. Nice!

Day 1: Perth to Augusta
We drove out of Perth in glorious sunshine and headed to Busselton where we admired the longest pier in the southern hemisphere. Being from Southend which boasts the longest pier in the world, I can't say I was that impressed. However, the pure white sand and clear turquoise water surrounding it did impress me. Much as I love Sarfend, it really can't compete with that. Just to top it all off, an ironman contest was taking place. Fit men, beautiful beaches and glorious sunshine - I was in heaven. They had to tear me away from the place with the promise of wine and surfers later in the day!

We managed to cram in a national park, a brewery, a spot of shopping and time to laze on a windsurfer beach too. Three of us girls were really quite enthralled by the sight of 'hotties in wetties' (translation: hot men in wetsuits), and again we had to be enticed back to the bus. A pretty good start to the tour!

Days 2 and 3: Augusta - Albany - Esperance
Days two and three were grey, cloudy and quite chilly which was a shocker. I had to chuckle when the Russian girl in our party was complaining about the cold, especially as she'd been regaling us with tales of partying in temperatures of -54 degrees! We tried not to let the slight chill spoil our enjoyment of the Karri forest, hikes through great national parks and our exploration of the stunning scenery. I haven't climbed a tree since I was about 10, but I did here - the bicentennial tree (rather tall as it goes!)

Day 4: Esperance
Day four was an absolute beauty. The sun shone brightly for us in the lovely town of Esperance. We spent the day moving from one stunning beach to another. This town is so spoilt - not one but about eight beaches of breathtaking beauty. All of them have pure white sand and clear, clear sea. We were practically the only people on them too. Being a self-confessed beach babe, this was utter heaven for me. I have been swept away by the beaches in Esperance and the Ningaloo reef up north. Western Australia really does good beaches. Can Bondi compete? I shall find out next week.

Back in Perth
So now I'm back in Perth for a few days before flying to Sydney next week. I'm staying in Cottesloe beach to lap up my last days of WA beach life in the sunshine.

It certainly doesn't feel like Christmas is just around the corner. It's more hot, hot, hot than ho, ho, ho here!

Our WA road trip

28th November: Coral Bay, WA
What have I done today? I woke up to beautiful blue skies which developed into 38 degree sunshine. I walked along the most incredible beach with soft, white sand leading into deep blue sea interspersed with coral reef. Jealous yet?

I've driven up to Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef with my friend Em. We started in Freo near Perth, loaded our backpacks, day packs, smaller bags and ourselves into our two door Hyundai rental car and set off on our Thelma and Louise style adventure. We drove through suburbs and winelands, miles of arrid, bare earth varying from grey to brown to yellow to red.

We've stopped in small towns, at stunning beaches (one made entirely from cockleshells - the aptly named Shell Beach), at weird stone formations in the desert (the Pinnacles) and, thankfully, at petrol stations in the middle of nowhere where you expect tumbleweed to blow past at any moment. We've seen some strange creatures, especially in those random roadhouse petrol stations!

Fortunately, the only kangaroos we've seen have been roadkill. That's fortunate for me, not the poor deceased roo. Much as I love spotting wildlife, I really don't want to spot it splattered across the windscreen. The animal death toll on these roads is massive. Surely someone can teach the green cross code to wildlife.

I did a fabulous snorkelling trip where I swam with a manta ray - just amazing. Then I dived with a turtle and got nibbled by shoals of emperor fish. The other day I paddled with wild dolphins. Today we saw baby sharks swimming by the shore. Each day this week I've been blown away by natural beauty - and I don't mean the surfers!

We've reached our northernmost destination and it's time to start heading south again. On our Thelma and Louise adventure, we haven't yet shot anyone or encountered Brad Pitt but there's still time!

If reading this has made you a tad envious, there is a fly in the ointment. In fact, pesky flies are everywhere and they're incredibly persistent. They land on you and stay. Currently, one is on my eyelid and another on my lip. I may be buying a hat with corks yet...

G'day Western Australia

21st November: Perth, WA
Two days ago I waved a sad farewell to my cousin in Hong Kong, took a taxi, train, plane, bus and another train and arrived at Fremantle station to be greeted by my good friend Emma. We'll be travelling together in Oz which will be great - no more flying solo for a while.

I've been to Oz a few times before, but always to the east coast. Now's the time to discover if west really is best, as many have told me.

The first thing that strikes me in Oz is the vast size of it. It shouldn't surprise me, but it does. The roads seem wide. Shops, units and buildings seem so big. There are so many parks and open spaces. It makes me realise how cramped it is at home and in so many other parts of the world.

Then there's the Aussie friendliness. I exited Perth airport with my backpack, clearly looking vaguely lost. Within seconds, an incredibly helpful woman helped me find my best route to Freo (Fremantle - a suburb just south of Perth). She made it all so easy with her warmth and kindness. It was such a contrast to previous airport greetings in Asia where there's a frenzied descent of taxi drivers and touts vying for your trade, and in many cases, the opportunity to scam a naive tourist.

The other big surprise for me here is the high prices. With the current exchange rate, costs are about the same as the UK. After travelling in SE Asia, that hurts! I was able to live well for so little in Vietnam and Cambodia that I've got used to eating out. Price tags are irrelevant there as haggling is a national sport. That's not going to work here. I'm going to have to embrace the backpacker spirit, sleep in dormitory bunk beds and cook my instant noodles in the hostel's communal kitchen. Eek!

Fortunately, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and that costs nothing!

Hello Hong Kong

This week I have mainly been chilling out in Hong Kong with my lovely cousin Charlotte and her hubby, Martin. It's so different from my last few weeks. Being back in civilisation and relative normality is taking some getting used to. I've been talking to people who don't need to know my background and story as they already know it. I can go into the kitchen and make myself a cup of tea. I can sit on a sofa and watch TV. It's ace!

The first thing that struck me about Hong Kong when I arrived here is that it's so organised compared to my recent destinations. I got a train from the airport into town and it was spotless, efficient and quick. I got a taxi from the station. There was a taxi stand with somebody directing the cabs to passengers. I didn't have to haggle the price, check that the meter was running correctly or fear I was going to be taken to a random shop or hotel. I got in a cab, the fare was set, and the driver took me to my destination. Such a weird concept!

I found myself walking down the street the other day and I had to remind myself that I should be walking on the pavement rather than in the road. In Cambodia and Vietnam, there's rarely room for you to walk on the pavement. The pavement is where people park their motorbikes, cook food, eat on tiny plastic stools, beg, sell, sleep, but rarely just walk. I've got used to walking in the gutter, hoping not to be hit by one of the many motorbikes zooming past me.

I feel like I'm having a week off travelling. I've visited Hong Kong twice before, so I don't have my usual agenda of sightseeing. The temperature is about 10 degrees cooler here too which is a total shocker. I'm really unprepared too as I've only packed for sunshine. A chilblain started to develop on my finger within 36 hours!

We went to the Hong Kong Open golf tournament on Saturday. This trip is all about new experiences, but this wasn't one that I'd anticipated. It was really interesting wandering around the gorgeous course and watching men hit balls with sticks. I have to say that I was more intrigued by their fashion choices than their putting ability, but nevetheless it was another good first for me.

I have a few more days to relax and explore HK before I fly off to Perth, Australia. I'll enjoy the cooler temperature here while I can as Oz will be getting hot and hotter. Phew!

Beauty treats?

When you can get a salon treatment for the price of a skinny cappuccino, it's great to indulge in some pampering from time to time. Quite frankly, my body needs a few treats given what it's endured over the past few weeks in Vietnam and Cambodia.

Feet treats
A couple of times in Cambodia I decided to try and pretty up my feet, especially considering what they'd waded through on the farm. I started with a regular pedicure. I sat back in my comfy chair while my therapist crouched in the typical flat foot squat that Asian people adopt so easily. Try it, it really isn't so easy.

My feet were cleaned, then cleaned some more - clearly even she recognised the depth of dirt she was dealing with and decided to move on swiftly. Out came the colours. Now I'm normally a deep berry kind of girl, but I was out of luck. Acid green, lemon yellow, lurid pink or a 1980s bridesmaid shade of peach? Hmmm. I opted for a pink which was rather more luminous than I anticipated. However, this proved rather useful the following day when the tuk tuk broke down and I jumped out into a muddy ditch yet could still see a gleaming pink toenail shining through the cow dung!

Fishy feet treats
I'd heard tales of the legendary fish massage in Siem Reap, so I was eager to try it for myself. Picture a kind of paddling pool filled with little fish all waiting to nibble away on your feet. Why did I ever think this was going to be a treat? It was truly revolting. My friend Sarah and I sat poised on the edge of the pool, trying unsuccessfully to immerse our feet in the fishy water for quite some time. Every time our feet got near the water and enticed the fish towards us, we shrieked and pulled our feet away. Eventually I managed to get my feet just below the water, the fish gathered around and started nibbling away on my heels. It really wasn't pleasant. When they ventured up to the sole of my feet, that was it. I hate having my feet tickled by anyone, but by a fish... Sorry, it wasn't for me. Fish fingers, yes. Fish feet, definitely not.

"You want massaaaage lady?"
This phrase was heard fairly frequently and once or twice I accepted. Now I love a good firm massage, but be warned. Don't be fooled by the masseur's petite frame. Cambodian women are incredibly strong, and when they're kneeling on your buttocks, leaning their full body weight onto your shoulders, you could be forgiven for thinking that it was Mike Tyson back there rather than an 8 stone middle aged woman. As I was wondering whether to surrender, lift the white flag and admit defeat, the silence was broken by the tune of 'Happy birthday'. It was her mobile phone ringtone! Ignoring me, she started to chat animatedly. I began to relax, but then she laughed heartily into her phone whilst gazing at my near naked body. If she hadn't been still kneeling on my buttocks, I'd have run away!

Two for the price of one
My latest beauty treat really was an experience. In Saigon, I realised that I was due a wax. After negotiating a good price, I was introduced to my two therapists. Yes, two for the price of one! They set about waxing my legs with gusto. Brilliant - double speed, extra efficiency and over in no time.

Then they moved up. I may be a little sensitive, paranoid even, but the glances that they exchanged and the fevered chat that ensued as they tackled my bikini line was somewhat disconcerting. This continued for the next 20 minutes. Yes, 20 minutes of the sort of teeth sucking noises normally reserved for builders and plumbers who reckon 'it's gonna cost ya love'. Give me a touch of British reserve and chat about holidays from a beauty therapist any day!

I ran away from that beauty session feeling rather traumatised, but with extremely silky hair-free legs. I'm still not sure if it was a beauty trick or treat though...

Vietnam: the final phase

So I've had a busy week or so in Hanoi. I went to Halong Bay for a 3 day boat trip which was great - definitely a highlight of my Vietnam trip. Halong Bay is just beautiful, if a little overcrowded with tourist boats. It's a shame that they've not embraced the 'green thing' over here yet, as this stunning place is getting full of litter. Despite that, sailing around the islands with gorgeous sunshine and clear blue skies overhead was a joy.

We had a day and a bit on a junk (surrounded by junk - ha ha!) and then we went to Cat Ba island. I managed to trek, scramble and climb my way to the peak in my Haviana flip flops. Not a feat to be recommended, but my tour guide assured me that it would be fine as he did it regularly. It was at about the halfway point that I twigged that he climbs like a mountain goat and I certainly don't! I managed it though and bumped into a woman who lives 5 minutes away from me at home. Small world eh?

Day 2 ended on Monkey Island where we had a private beach and I had my own little beach bungalow. Bliss! The evening kicked off with a 'floating bar' and happy hour. This involved us getting in lifebuoys, running into the sea to get a plastic mug of 'Monkey Island magic' from a mad Vietnamese guy in a polystyrene dinghy. The start to a very amusing evening with a great gang of people.

After Halong Bay, I took the night train to Sapa in north Vietnam. It's a mountainous area with many hill tribes. More trekking (in proper shoes this time) and exploring the stunning countryside. It looked rather like Switzerland so it was appropriate that I was adopted by an Austrian couple aged about 60. They were so sweet, but they did badger me constantly to apply suncream, drink water, eat more dinner, accompany them for an evening stroll, blah blah blah. I felt like a teenager on holiday with parents!

I'm back in Hanoi now and I've got two days to go before I fly off to Hong Kong to stay with my cousin Charlotte. I cannot tell you how excited I am about seeing her. I am longing to see a familiar face and relax on her sofa with some trashy mags and TV. Oh, and a cup of proper tea with proper milk (rather than the condensed milk that they use out here) would go down a treat. Simple pleasures eh?

Pip x

Hello Hanoi

Wednesday 4th November
Thanks for all of your emails. It's so good to hear all your news from home. It seems weird that it's getting cold and dark over there. The hotel receptionist here was complaining how cold it is here today as I sauntered out in a vest top and sunglasses. It really isn't cold - it's nearly thirty degrees!

I've had a great few days in Hoi An. It is such a lovely, quaint town. I spent ages just pottering round the streets full of tailor shops and art. I got to the beach which was beautiful and did a Vietnamese cookery course which was fun too. Be prepared to sample my new repertoire of dishes next year!

I had a few days to enjoy the sunshine before a big old storm hit on Monday. By Tuesday the river had spilled over its banks and flooded a couple of streets. The ever resourceful locals just pitched up in boats to take the tourists to the places that were under water.

I'm in Hanoi now and it's much nicer than I expected. Everybody told me that it was crazy busy and unbearable. After Phnom Penh and Ho Chi Minh City it seems ok to me. I've learnt how to cross the sea of traffic. Basically, you can step out in front of a motorbike but not a car, definitely not a 4x4 and only step in front of a 4x4 with a government numberplate if you have a death wish! I've spent the day wandering around the city sightseeing. I went to the Ho Chi Minh mausoleum but his body is in Russia being cleaned at the moment unfortunately. I still managed to see the mausoleum, the museum, sing the Ho Chi Minh theme tune and avoid buying the t-shirt. They're HCM mad here!

Anyway, I've just booked myself up for the rest of my time here so I have a plan. I'm off on a boat trip Thurs-Saturday around various islands in Halong bay. According to the tourism blurb, there's one that looks like a human head, one like a teapot and one like a cock (fowl or phallic?). I end up staying on Planet of the Apes (ok, monkey island!) for a night so I'll try to avoid going monkey nuts. Then I head off into the hills around Sapa for a few days to go trekking.

I'll let you know how it goes...

Vietnam: step 2

I'm now in Hoi An which is a really old quaint town in central Vietnam. I highly recommend it. I've been feeling very unsettled all week, getting used to travelling by myself, so I treated myself to a decent hotel. I arrived with the sun shining and a sun lounger by the pool calling to me. All is ok!

I've been to the beach which is gorgeous and spent hours pottering around the higgledy piggledy streets filled with tailor shops, art and ancient buildings.

There's so much I could buy here if I had some space in my rucksack. I took a shine to the people here when they started showering me with compliments. It didn't take long to realise that they were trying to entice me into their shop to have some clothes made. There's often a story of a dead mother or aunt to add some emotional gravitas to their sell too. I've got away reasonably unscathed with only the one tailor-made skirt - a midnight blue silk 50s style prom skirt. Not bad for about a fiver!

I did another cookery course too which was fun. Our teacher-chef was hilarious and kept coming out with peculiar English sayings like 'too many cooks spoil the broth'. He had a few wise words too such as'eating food without chilli is like making love without kissing and warning the men to wash their hands after chopping chillis and before going near their 'population stick'!

I have many more recipes to add to my repertoire now - spring rolls again, rice paper, Hoi An style pancakes, claypot casserole and banana leaf grilled fish. We also learnt vegetable decoration. It's clearly not a hidden talent of mine. I managed the tomato rose, but the cucumber fan was way beyond me!

I still feel a bit weird about travelling rather than working or volunteering and I do wonder how my students are doing. It's time to think about me now though. It's my 'me-ternity leave'after all.

Miss you
Pip x