26th October: Today is my last day in Cambodia. I can't believe it. More unbelievable is how much I do not want to leave this dirty, stinking place. What a difference a few weeks makes.
I've had a pretty amazing weekend to end on though. On Saturday, Sarah and I did a Cambodian cookery class. It started with a tour of the market where our guide told us about the local fruits, veg and herbs and how to cook with them. I wasn't quite so keen on the tour of the dried fish stall, live chickens and eels and the duck embryo stall. Duck embryo is a local delicacy and you see them selling it on the streets. The idea of it is utterly revolting and I think I may rather eat my own eyeball (and that's coming from somebody who ate a tarantula 4 weeks ago!)
Back at our rooftop cookery school, we made a series of dishes including spring rolls, a delicious fish amok, banana flower salad and sticky rice with mango. I will never underestimate what goes into a curry or amok again. Faced with the biggest pestle and mortar I have ever encountered, we had to pound the herbs, spices and lime into a paste. It was bloody hard work I can tell you! Haven't they heard of a food processor? Anyway, we were very proud of our final efforts, especially my enviable banana leaf basket containing a delectable fish amok. Do Tescos sell banana leaves?
Sunday was the day we'd all been waiting for - the wedding. Our camp guesthouse owner invited us to attend his adopted son's wedding. We were oh so honoured until we learned that we were among the 600+ guests. The day started at 6am sharp, when we were ushered onto a bus to the bridal house. There we all had to collect a gift on a silver platter. I carried pomegranates. Others had oranges, bananas, sweets or (my favourite) 4-packs of Tiger beer! Pomegranates had to walk with pomegranates, bananas with bananas and so forth. We processed through the streets to the venue - a kind of Cambodian marquee in the street. The groom arrived with his groomsmen in their first outfits - smart jackets with sarongs tied like a kind of nappy cum trouser. It made us laugh to notice that their actual trousers were rolled up to the knee underneath.
We all had breakfast together - a rice and meat soup (bit much at 8am to be honest) and then ceremony number 1 started. There were several ceremonies and dress changes and I won't go into them all. One involved the bride and groom cutting each other's hair and then having their hair cut my guests. I think she was wearing a hairpiece but he certainly wasn't. I half expected him to end up with some cool shaving in the back of his head, but no. By 12pm we were done in. There was loads of hanging around in between ceremonies. Fortunately we had a few hours break before the big party in the evening.
600 of the bride and groom's closest friends (ahem) celebrated with them at a riverside hotel. I say that we celebrated with them, but that's not entirely true. The bridal party stood outside greeting people from 4pm until after 8pm. Soon after 9pm, they were back outside to say goodbye to people as they began to leave! Inside, we were guided to a table and took in the wonderfully kitsch decorations. We were fed several courses of food and lots of drinks. Unfortunately, although they said that wine was on the menu, it was wine of the Johnnie Walker variety!
It was just fascinating to watch the men get so drunk. They really knock it back. Women don't drink unless they're sluts apparently - oops! Dancing began and there was some sort of Cambodian conga. At least, that's the way I saw it. I really don't know how the women bend their hands backwards so beautifully though. Mine just don't do that. The bride and groom rushed in for a quick dance and an awkward peck on the cheek before hurrying back outside again. We had a brilliant time and it was a great last night in Cambodia.
It's only been 5 weeks but it has been one of the most memorable experiences of my life. I have learnt so much and been through so many different emotions, challenges and rewarding highs. I don't want to get off this ride now...
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