I hope you all had a very merry Christmas. I still can't really believe that it's been and gone. It's 29th December and I'm the same weight that I was last week and I feel really healthy. That just isn't right for Christmas week. I've had Christmas with no turkey, no roasties, no mince pies, no pud and no Quality Street. My fridge isn't weighed down with leftovers and my stomach isn't groaning after weeks of over-indulgence. It's great!
In the lead up to Christmas, I heard a few festive tunes in shops but not very many. There are some decorations around, but it's much less noticeable than at home. Christmas trees, Santa and reindeer just don't look right against a sunny backdrop.
To get in the festive spirit, Emma and I went to Darling Harbour on Christmas Eve. We joined in the carols around the Christmas tree which was made us feel a bit more Christmassy. There were a few groups of people wearing Santa hats, tinsel and other festive accessories. Spot the Brits! After the carols, we sat on the harbourside with a glass of wine and watched the fireworks. It was a lovely to start our celebrations.
Christmas Day was spent at my friends' house with an eclectic group of fellow waifs and strays. Lunch was a fish barbeque. It was utterly delicious and so relaxed. No panic about getting everything in the oven at 8am! Unfortunately, it was a grey, drizzly day so I was really pleased that some traditions are international - the men stood outside barbequeing in the rain while the women sat inside chatting and drinking!
It was a lovely day, but it didn't really feel like Christmas. It should be cold, indulgent and with family really. But that's what I do every year, and this trip is all about doing something different. Whilst I've missed my family and friends, I haven't missed all the Christmas hype and panic. I just sailed through it with a smile on my face.
All in all, Christmas has been super-chilled. In fact, that's the overwhelming characteristic of my Aussie experience so far. It's too easy (my favourite Aussie expression)!
After volunteering in Cambodia and travelling alone through Vietnam, I keep thinking that my travels should be more challenging than this. I'm staying in a friend's apartment, catching up with mates who have moved here, and I'm generally enjoying living in Sydney for a while. It's great, but should I be looking for more testing experiences on my trip?
On the other hand, I have a tan to maintain and a surf lesson lined up. Maybe that's enough of a challenge for now.
Have a happy new year all.
Monday, 28 December 2009
Friday, 11 December 2009
WA road trip 2
This week I have mainly been on a tour of the south coast of Western Australia, from Perth to Esperance. What can I say but wow, wow, wow?! It was brilliant. I left the driving to a professional this time and sat back to enjoy the view from the minibus. Nice!
Day 1: Perth to Augusta
We drove out of Perth in glorious sunshine and headed to Busselton where we admired the longest pier in the southern hemisphere. Being from Southend which boasts the longest pier in the world, I can't say I was that impressed. However, the pure white sand and clear turquoise water surrounding it did impress me. Much as I love Sarfend, it really can't compete with that. Just to top it all off, an ironman contest was taking place. Fit men, beautiful beaches and glorious sunshine - I was in heaven. They had to tear me away from the place with the promise of wine and surfers later in the day!
We managed to cram in a national park, a brewery, a spot of shopping and time to laze on a windsurfer beach too. Three of us girls were really quite enthralled by the sight of 'hotties in wetties' (translation: hot men in wetsuits), and again we had to be enticed back to the bus. A pretty good start to the tour!
Days 2 and 3: Augusta - Albany - Esperance
Days two and three were grey, cloudy and quite chilly which was a shocker. I had to chuckle when the Russian girl in our party was complaining about the cold, especially as she'd been regaling us with tales of partying in temperatures of -54 degrees! We tried not to let the slight chill spoil our enjoyment of the Karri forest, hikes through great national parks and our exploration of the stunning scenery. I haven't climbed a tree since I was about 10, but I did here - the bicentennial tree (rather tall as it goes!)
Day 4: Esperance
Day four was an absolute beauty. The sun shone brightly for us in the lovely town of Esperance. We spent the day moving from one stunning beach to another. This town is so spoilt - not one but about eight beaches of breathtaking beauty. All of them have pure white sand and clear, clear sea. We were practically the only people on them too. Being a self-confessed beach babe, this was utter heaven for me. I have been swept away by the beaches in Esperance and the Ningaloo reef up north. Western Australia really does good beaches. Can Bondi compete? I shall find out next week.
Back in Perth
So now I'm back in Perth for a few days before flying to Sydney next week. I'm staying in Cottesloe beach to lap up my last days of WA beach life in the sunshine.
It certainly doesn't feel like Christmas is just around the corner. It's more hot, hot, hot than ho, ho, ho here!
Day 1: Perth to Augusta
We drove out of Perth in glorious sunshine and headed to Busselton where we admired the longest pier in the southern hemisphere. Being from Southend which boasts the longest pier in the world, I can't say I was that impressed. However, the pure white sand and clear turquoise water surrounding it did impress me. Much as I love Sarfend, it really can't compete with that. Just to top it all off, an ironman contest was taking place. Fit men, beautiful beaches and glorious sunshine - I was in heaven. They had to tear me away from the place with the promise of wine and surfers later in the day!
We managed to cram in a national park, a brewery, a spot of shopping and time to laze on a windsurfer beach too. Three of us girls were really quite enthralled by the sight of 'hotties in wetties' (translation: hot men in wetsuits), and again we had to be enticed back to the bus. A pretty good start to the tour!
Days 2 and 3: Augusta - Albany - Esperance
Days two and three were grey, cloudy and quite chilly which was a shocker. I had to chuckle when the Russian girl in our party was complaining about the cold, especially as she'd been regaling us with tales of partying in temperatures of -54 degrees! We tried not to let the slight chill spoil our enjoyment of the Karri forest, hikes through great national parks and our exploration of the stunning scenery. I haven't climbed a tree since I was about 10, but I did here - the bicentennial tree (rather tall as it goes!)
Day 4: Esperance
Day four was an absolute beauty. The sun shone brightly for us in the lovely town of Esperance. We spent the day moving from one stunning beach to another. This town is so spoilt - not one but about eight beaches of breathtaking beauty. All of them have pure white sand and clear, clear sea. We were practically the only people on them too. Being a self-confessed beach babe, this was utter heaven for me. I have been swept away by the beaches in Esperance and the Ningaloo reef up north. Western Australia really does good beaches. Can Bondi compete? I shall find out next week.
Back in Perth
So now I'm back in Perth for a few days before flying to Sydney next week. I'm staying in Cottesloe beach to lap up my last days of WA beach life in the sunshine.
It certainly doesn't feel like Christmas is just around the corner. It's more hot, hot, hot than ho, ho, ho here!
Wednesday, 2 December 2009
Our WA road trip
28th November: Coral Bay, WA
What have I done today? I woke up to beautiful blue skies which developed into 38 degree sunshine. I walked along the most incredible beach with soft, white sand leading into deep blue sea interspersed with coral reef. Jealous yet?
I've driven up to Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef with my friend Em. We started in Freo near Perth, loaded our backpacks, day packs, smaller bags and ourselves into our two door Hyundai rental car and set off on our Thelma and Louise style adventure. We drove through suburbs and winelands, miles of arrid, bare earth varying from grey to brown to yellow to red.
We've stopped in small towns, at stunning beaches (one made entirely from cockleshells - the aptly named Shell Beach), at weird stone formations in the desert (the Pinnacles) and, thankfully, at petrol stations in the middle of nowhere where you expect tumbleweed to blow past at any moment. We've seen some strange creatures, especially in those random roadhouse petrol stations!
Fortunately, the only kangaroos we've seen have been roadkill. That's fortunate for me, not the poor deceased roo. Much as I love spotting wildlife, I really don't want to spot it splattered across the windscreen. The animal death toll on these roads is massive. Surely someone can teach the green cross code to wildlife.
I did a fabulous snorkelling trip where I swam with a manta ray - just amazing. Then I dived with a turtle and got nibbled by shoals of emperor fish. The other day I paddled with wild dolphins. Today we saw baby sharks swimming by the shore. Each day this week I've been blown away by natural beauty - and I don't mean the surfers!
We've reached our northernmost destination and it's time to start heading south again. On our Thelma and Louise adventure, we haven't yet shot anyone or encountered Brad Pitt but there's still time!
If reading this has made you a tad envious, there is a fly in the ointment. In fact, pesky flies are everywhere and they're incredibly persistent. They land on you and stay. Currently, one is on my eyelid and another on my lip. I may be buying a hat with corks yet...
What have I done today? I woke up to beautiful blue skies which developed into 38 degree sunshine. I walked along the most incredible beach with soft, white sand leading into deep blue sea interspersed with coral reef. Jealous yet?
I've driven up to Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef with my friend Em. We started in Freo near Perth, loaded our backpacks, day packs, smaller bags and ourselves into our two door Hyundai rental car and set off on our Thelma and Louise style adventure. We drove through suburbs and winelands, miles of arrid, bare earth varying from grey to brown to yellow to red.
We've stopped in small towns, at stunning beaches (one made entirely from cockleshells - the aptly named Shell Beach), at weird stone formations in the desert (the Pinnacles) and, thankfully, at petrol stations in the middle of nowhere where you expect tumbleweed to blow past at any moment. We've seen some strange creatures, especially in those random roadhouse petrol stations!
Fortunately, the only kangaroos we've seen have been roadkill. That's fortunate for me, not the poor deceased roo. Much as I love spotting wildlife, I really don't want to spot it splattered across the windscreen. The animal death toll on these roads is massive. Surely someone can teach the green cross code to wildlife.
I did a fabulous snorkelling trip where I swam with a manta ray - just amazing. Then I dived with a turtle and got nibbled by shoals of emperor fish. The other day I paddled with wild dolphins. Today we saw baby sharks swimming by the shore. Each day this week I've been blown away by natural beauty - and I don't mean the surfers!
We've reached our northernmost destination and it's time to start heading south again. On our Thelma and Louise adventure, we haven't yet shot anyone or encountered Brad Pitt but there's still time!
If reading this has made you a tad envious, there is a fly in the ointment. In fact, pesky flies are everywhere and they're incredibly persistent. They land on you and stay. Currently, one is on my eyelid and another on my lip. I may be buying a hat with corks yet...
G'day Western Australia
21st November: Perth, WA
Two days ago I waved a sad farewell to my cousin in Hong Kong, took a taxi, train, plane, bus and another train and arrived at Fremantle station to be greeted by my good friend Emma. We'll be travelling together in Oz which will be great - no more flying solo for a while.
I've been to Oz a few times before, but always to the east coast. Now's the time to discover if west really is best, as many have told me.
The first thing that strikes me in Oz is the vast size of it. It shouldn't surprise me, but it does. The roads seem wide. Shops, units and buildings seem so big. There are so many parks and open spaces. It makes me realise how cramped it is at home and in so many other parts of the world.
Then there's the Aussie friendliness. I exited Perth airport with my backpack, clearly looking vaguely lost. Within seconds, an incredibly helpful woman helped me find my best route to Freo (Fremantle - a suburb just south of Perth). She made it all so easy with her warmth and kindness. It was such a contrast to previous airport greetings in Asia where there's a frenzied descent of taxi drivers and touts vying for your trade, and in many cases, the opportunity to scam a naive tourist.
The other big surprise for me here is the high prices. With the current exchange rate, costs are about the same as the UK. After travelling in SE Asia, that hurts! I was able to live well for so little in Vietnam and Cambodia that I've got used to eating out. Price tags are irrelevant there as haggling is a national sport. That's not going to work here. I'm going to have to embrace the backpacker spirit, sleep in dormitory bunk beds and cook my instant noodles in the hostel's communal kitchen. Eek!
Fortunately, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and that costs nothing!
Two days ago I waved a sad farewell to my cousin in Hong Kong, took a taxi, train, plane, bus and another train and arrived at Fremantle station to be greeted by my good friend Emma. We'll be travelling together in Oz which will be great - no more flying solo for a while.
I've been to Oz a few times before, but always to the east coast. Now's the time to discover if west really is best, as many have told me.
The first thing that strikes me in Oz is the vast size of it. It shouldn't surprise me, but it does. The roads seem wide. Shops, units and buildings seem so big. There are so many parks and open spaces. It makes me realise how cramped it is at home and in so many other parts of the world.
Then there's the Aussie friendliness. I exited Perth airport with my backpack, clearly looking vaguely lost. Within seconds, an incredibly helpful woman helped me find my best route to Freo (Fremantle - a suburb just south of Perth). She made it all so easy with her warmth and kindness. It was such a contrast to previous airport greetings in Asia where there's a frenzied descent of taxi drivers and touts vying for your trade, and in many cases, the opportunity to scam a naive tourist.
The other big surprise for me here is the high prices. With the current exchange rate, costs are about the same as the UK. After travelling in SE Asia, that hurts! I was able to live well for so little in Vietnam and Cambodia that I've got used to eating out. Price tags are irrelevant there as haggling is a national sport. That's not going to work here. I'm going to have to embrace the backpacker spirit, sleep in dormitory bunk beds and cook my instant noodles in the hostel's communal kitchen. Eek!
Fortunately, the sun is shining, the sky is blue and that costs nothing!
Monday, 16 November 2009
Hello Hong Kong
This week I have mainly been chilling out in Hong Kong with my lovely cousin Charlotte and her hubby, Martin. It's so different from my last few weeks. Being back in civilisation and relative normality is taking some getting used to. I've been talking to people who don't need to know my background and story as they already know it. I can go into the kitchen and make myself a cup of tea. I can sit on a sofa and watch TV. It's ace!
The first thing that struck me about Hong Kong when I arrived here is that it's so organised compared to my recent destinations. I got a train from the airport into town and it was spotless, efficient and quick. I got a taxi from the station. There was a taxi stand with somebody directing the cabs to passengers. I didn't have to haggle the price, check that the meter was running correctly or fear I was going to be taken to a random shop or hotel. I got in a cab, the fare was set, and the driver took me to my destination. Such a weird concept!
I found myself walking down the street the other day and I had to remind myself that I should be walking on the pavement rather than in the road. In Cambodia and Vietnam, there's rarely room for you to walk on the pavement. The pavement is where people park their motorbikes, cook food, eat on tiny plastic stools, beg, sell, sleep, but rarely just walk. I've got used to walking in the gutter, hoping not to be hit by one of the many motorbikes zooming past me.
I feel like I'm having a week off travelling. I've visited Hong Kong twice before, so I don't have my usual agenda of sightseeing. The temperature is about 10 degrees cooler here too which is a total shocker. I'm really unprepared too as I've only packed for sunshine. A chilblain started to develop on my finger within 36 hours!
We went to the Hong Kong Open golf tournament on Saturday. This trip is all about new experiences, but this wasn't one that I'd anticipated. It was really interesting wandering around the gorgeous course and watching men hit balls with sticks. I have to say that I was more intrigued by their fashion choices than their putting ability, but nevetheless it was another good first for me.
I have a few more days to relax and explore HK before I fly off to Perth, Australia. I'll enjoy the cooler temperature here while I can as Oz will be getting hot and hotter. Phew!
The first thing that struck me about Hong Kong when I arrived here is that it's so organised compared to my recent destinations. I got a train from the airport into town and it was spotless, efficient and quick. I got a taxi from the station. There was a taxi stand with somebody directing the cabs to passengers. I didn't have to haggle the price, check that the meter was running correctly or fear I was going to be taken to a random shop or hotel. I got in a cab, the fare was set, and the driver took me to my destination. Such a weird concept!
I found myself walking down the street the other day and I had to remind myself that I should be walking on the pavement rather than in the road. In Cambodia and Vietnam, there's rarely room for you to walk on the pavement. The pavement is where people park their motorbikes, cook food, eat on tiny plastic stools, beg, sell, sleep, but rarely just walk. I've got used to walking in the gutter, hoping not to be hit by one of the many motorbikes zooming past me.
I feel like I'm having a week off travelling. I've visited Hong Kong twice before, so I don't have my usual agenda of sightseeing. The temperature is about 10 degrees cooler here too which is a total shocker. I'm really unprepared too as I've only packed for sunshine. A chilblain started to develop on my finger within 36 hours!
We went to the Hong Kong Open golf tournament on Saturday. This trip is all about new experiences, but this wasn't one that I'd anticipated. It was really interesting wandering around the gorgeous course and watching men hit balls with sticks. I have to say that I was more intrigued by their fashion choices than their putting ability, but nevetheless it was another good first for me.
I have a few more days to relax and explore HK before I fly off to Perth, Australia. I'll enjoy the cooler temperature here while I can as Oz will be getting hot and hotter. Phew!
Sunday, 15 November 2009
Beauty treats?
When you can get a salon treatment for the price of a skinny cappuccino, it's great to indulge in some pampering from time to time. Quite frankly, my body needs a few treats given what it's endured over the past few weeks in Vietnam and Cambodia.
Feet treats
A couple of times in Cambodia I decided to try and pretty up my feet, especially considering what they'd waded through on the farm. I started with a regular pedicure. I sat back in my comfy chair while my therapist crouched in the typical flat foot squat that Asian people adopt so easily. Try it, it really isn't so easy.
My feet were cleaned, then cleaned some more - clearly even she recognised the depth of dirt she was dealing with and decided to move on swiftly. Out came the colours. Now I'm normally a deep berry kind of girl, but I was out of luck. Acid green, lemon yellow, lurid pink or a 1980s bridesmaid shade of peach? Hmmm. I opted for a pink which was rather more luminous than I anticipated. However, this proved rather useful the following day when the tuk tuk broke down and I jumped out into a muddy ditch yet could still see a gleaming pink toenail shining through the cow dung!
Fishy feet treats
I'd heard tales of the legendary fish massage in Siem Reap, so I was eager to try it for myself. Picture a kind of paddling pool filled with little fish all waiting to nibble away on your feet. Why did I ever think this was going to be a treat? It was truly revolting. My friend Sarah and I sat poised on the edge of the pool, trying unsuccessfully to immerse our feet in the fishy water for quite some time. Every time our feet got near the water and enticed the fish towards us, we shrieked and pulled our feet away. Eventually I managed to get my feet just below the water, the fish gathered around and started nibbling away on my heels. It really wasn't pleasant. When they ventured up to the sole of my feet, that was it. I hate having my feet tickled by anyone, but by a fish... Sorry, it wasn't for me. Fish fingers, yes. Fish feet, definitely not.
"You want massaaaage lady?"
This phrase was heard fairly frequently and once or twice I accepted. Now I love a good firm massage, but be warned. Don't be fooled by the masseur's petite frame. Cambodian women are incredibly strong, and when they're kneeling on your buttocks, leaning their full body weight onto your shoulders, you could be forgiven for thinking that it was Mike Tyson back there rather than an 8 stone middle aged woman. As I was wondering whether to surrender, lift the white flag and admit defeat, the silence was broken by the tune of 'Happy birthday'. It was her mobile phone ringtone! Ignoring me, she started to chat animatedly. I began to relax, but then she laughed heartily into her phone whilst gazing at my near naked body. If she hadn't been still kneeling on my buttocks, I'd have run away!
Two for the price of one
My latest beauty treat really was an experience. In Saigon, I realised that I was due a wax. After negotiating a good price, I was introduced to my two therapists. Yes, two for the price of one! They set about waxing my legs with gusto. Brilliant - double speed, extra efficiency and over in no time.
Then they moved up. I may be a little sensitive, paranoid even, but the glances that they exchanged and the fevered chat that ensued as they tackled my bikini line was somewhat disconcerting. This continued for the next 20 minutes. Yes, 20 minutes of the sort of teeth sucking noises normally reserved for builders and plumbers who reckon 'it's gonna cost ya love'. Give me a touch of British reserve and chat about holidays from a beauty therapist any day!
I ran away from that beauty session feeling rather traumatised, but with extremely silky hair-free legs. I'm still not sure if it was a beauty trick or treat though...
Tuesday, 10 November 2009
Vietnam: the final phase
So I've had a busy week or so in Hanoi. I went to Halong Bay for a 3 day boat trip which was great - definitely a highlight of my Vietnam trip. Halong Bay is just beautiful, if a little overcrowded with tourist boats. It's a shame that they've not embraced the 'green thing' over here yet, as this stunning place is getting full of litter. Despite that, sailing around the islands with gorgeous sunshine and clear blue skies overhead was a joy.
We had a day and a bit on a junk (surrounded by junk - ha ha!) and then we went to Cat Ba island. I managed to trek, scramble and climb my way to the peak in my Haviana flip flops. Not a feat to be recommended, but my tour guide assured me that it would be fine as he did it regularly. It was at about the halfway point that I twigged that he climbs like a mountain goat and I certainly don't! I managed it though and bumped into a woman who lives 5 minutes away from me at home. Small world eh?
Day 2 ended on Monkey Island where we had a private beach and I had my own little beach bungalow. Bliss! The evening kicked off with a 'floating bar' and happy hour. This involved us getting in lifebuoys, running into the sea to get a plastic mug of 'Monkey Island magic' from a mad Vietnamese guy in a polystyrene dinghy. The start to a very amusing evening with a great gang of people.
After Halong Bay, I took the night train to Sapa in north Vietnam. It's a mountainous area with many hill tribes. More trekking (in proper shoes this time) and exploring the stunning countryside. It looked rather like Switzerland so it was appropriate that I was adopted by an Austrian couple aged about 60. They were so sweet, but they did badger me constantly to apply suncream, drink water, eat more dinner, accompany them for an evening stroll, blah blah blah. I felt like a teenager on holiday with parents!
I'm back in Hanoi now and I've got two days to go before I fly off to Hong Kong to stay with my cousin Charlotte. I cannot tell you how excited I am about seeing her. I am longing to see a familiar face and relax on her sofa with some trashy mags and TV. Oh, and a cup of proper tea with proper milk (rather than the condensed milk that they use out here) would go down a treat. Simple pleasures eh?
Pip x
We had a day and a bit on a junk (surrounded by junk - ha ha!) and then we went to Cat Ba island. I managed to trek, scramble and climb my way to the peak in my Haviana flip flops. Not a feat to be recommended, but my tour guide assured me that it would be fine as he did it regularly. It was at about the halfway point that I twigged that he climbs like a mountain goat and I certainly don't! I managed it though and bumped into a woman who lives 5 minutes away from me at home. Small world eh?
Day 2 ended on Monkey Island where we had a private beach and I had my own little beach bungalow. Bliss! The evening kicked off with a 'floating bar' and happy hour. This involved us getting in lifebuoys, running into the sea to get a plastic mug of 'Monkey Island magic' from a mad Vietnamese guy in a polystyrene dinghy. The start to a very amusing evening with a great gang of people.
After Halong Bay, I took the night train to Sapa in north Vietnam. It's a mountainous area with many hill tribes. More trekking (in proper shoes this time) and exploring the stunning countryside. It looked rather like Switzerland so it was appropriate that I was adopted by an Austrian couple aged about 60. They were so sweet, but they did badger me constantly to apply suncream, drink water, eat more dinner, accompany them for an evening stroll, blah blah blah. I felt like a teenager on holiday with parents!
I'm back in Hanoi now and I've got two days to go before I fly off to Hong Kong to stay with my cousin Charlotte. I cannot tell you how excited I am about seeing her. I am longing to see a familiar face and relax on her sofa with some trashy mags and TV. Oh, and a cup of proper tea with proper milk (rather than the condensed milk that they use out here) would go down a treat. Simple pleasures eh?
Pip x
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